children we came up upon on the side of the road
This is continued from the last post about February 7th...
In review, we were at the market in Jinka and had met the Benna and Beca tribes. I briefly mentioned our 12 year old guides.
Bobbi was one of our 12 year old guides. He was the one that was savvy with multiple languages. He lived 1 day (by foot) away from his family, in Jinka-which was also a couple of hours travel by car from here (Key Afar). He told us that he was not sure if he could get a ride back Jinka or if he would have to walk. He promised us that he would meet up with us in Jinka tomorrow and introduce us to the Mercy tribe. He told me that he and his buddy rented a space in Jinka for 70 birr for 3 days. His place is essentially a compound. He and his buddy share a space, a small area, where they sleep on banana leaves and worry that the others that inhabit the compound will steal the small amount of belongings that they own. They have had this happen in the past. They have also been physically abused by the others at times. He told us if they don't pay on time, that they get beat-up. These boys do attend school; as this is the reason why they are in Jinka. They are on vacation from school right now-the schools take the month of February off-kind of a mini summer vacation-as it is their summer right now. They go to school for 5 months and take one month off. They are such sweet, brilliant boys-I wish there was some way that I could help them?
Bobbi
After leaving the market, we made our journey further south with Jinka as our destination. It was a long journey to Jinka-as the gravel road had multiple pot-holes, people, goats, cows, baboons, and various other obstacles. I have now been car sick for 5 days-probably the longest that I have ever been nauseated without vomiting. I think that this ginger gum that Dylan and I have been chewing for the nausea...is even making me more nauseated at this point. But, at least I have the luxury of being in a car and chewing this nasty gum; while we pass people caring heavy loads for miles on their backs...most without shoes. So, what the hell am I complaining about? It has just been a long day...but I should be sitting here feeling thankful rather than complaining.
On our way from Key Afar to Jinka we had car trouble. Here we were, in the middle of no where, when we came up upon a vehicle packed full of people (there were about 30 people on this over sized vehicle-inside of it, on top of it, and even hanging off of the sides). It seemed that it had broken down...our guide (who I am starting not to like) honked at the people as they were trying to get off of the vehicle and figure out what was going on with it...not just a little honk letting them know we were trying to pass...he laid on the horn. It was so embarrassing and this is not the first time that he has chosen to treat others like shit. There are so many examples...I don't even know where to begin...I can tell that Lance's patience for this man are running short as well. Mesfin (our guide) seems to exploit everyone we meet. We try to explain to him that we are here to learn about Simret's culture and would love to help in any way we can along the way. Instead he acts like we cannot be bothered by the people, we cannot wait for anything, he makes me feel fragile and privileged...and I guess we are? It is a sad realization that white skin equals opportunity and wealth to Ethiopians and then again, why shouldn't it...this is their experience? I just don't want to be treated like royalty...I want to meet others...form relationships...experience Ethiopia without this man pushing the people away and treating them like they are not worthy to even talk to us? I think I will talk to Lance to talk to him (that is how it works here...he has never once asked my opinion...just asks Lance-our tribal leader). Maybe I need to step back and realize that this is part of the culture and I wanted to experience it?
So anyway, we honk at these people and they move out of the way. Some looking irritated, others surprised to see us and wave, and then another picks up a rock and acts like he is going to throw it through the window (could have been worse; as he has a gun strapped to his back). Then wouldn't you know it, Karma hits, and our car dies. Yup, it stalls right in the middle of us laying on the horn trying to get these people, who are also stranded in the hot sun, to move out of our way? What happened next was amazing...about 5 people started to push our car to see if we could push start it by popping the clutch. It worked and we drove away, leaving behind those that helped us; stranded? My heart sunk deep in my stomach; which increased my nausea. I look back and all I can see a thick layer of dust behind us...the people and vehicle disappeared in our dust trail.
Our guide, Mesfin, with a man from the Benna tribe.
Our vehicle was not fixed, there was something wrong with it. It would not go over about 15 miles per hours without bucking. I started to panic...what if we break down here? I am supposed to meet my daughter in 5 days? There is nothing around...and I mean nothing! What do people do when their vehicles break down here? There aren't many vehicles...it is not like they have auto shops and that is if we even get to the next village? I started regretting traveling outside of Addis. This is exactly what my mother warned me about, "you have no business traveling around in Ethiopia...you just pick up your baby". I of course thought that she was being overprotective...and didn't understand that I needed to experience Simret's culture. (I grabbed Dylan's hand and he squeezed mine, which made me think that he knew what I was thinking...it somehow made me feel better about the current situation).
A child dancing naked in the middle of the road on our way to Jinka.
Ethiopian traffic jam...
Ethiopian traffic jam...
another child on the side of the road on our way to Jinka.
We did arrive in Jinka multiple hours later because of our vehicle trouble, but still we arrived! We stayed at the Jinka Resort; there was some sort of mix-up & we only got 1 room for all of us, as the rest of the rooms were sold out. Mesfin told us that he was going to take the boys camping and that we would stay there. Lance and I looked at each other like "there was no way in hell the boys are going to be some where else". So, we asked if we could all squeeze into one room. They ended up building us another small bed-out of wood (their version of a roll-away); we pushed the two small beds together and slept cozy next to one another under the mosquito net. This place was a palace compared to where we had been staying; it was clean, there were fresh flowers in flower pots, there was a toilet (instead a hole in the ground), and running shower that is hot and the water is clear. The shower that Lance and I took tonight was probably the best shower that I have ever taken in my life. I felt like bugs, bacteria, and fungus had grown all over my dust infested body-nice to wash that all away; ready for the next round of critters. When we turned off the shower, it would not turn on again for the boys? I guess we were lucky it even worked as someone told us that it had been shut off all day by the city and will not be on again until 7pm (a daily routine); which is only an hour and a half from now. Until then I will search for a good glass of wine-yeah right! Instead, I will gladly settle for a local cold beer or two.
Our hotel at Jinka (the Jinka Resort)...luxury!
Dinner was the same: scrambled eggs, cheese and spaghetti. At this point I am quite sure that we have ingested multiple things that could make us sick. Thank God for the Cipro we are all taking daily. Otherwise, I think that I would have been ill many times over. I decided not to take the malaria mediation anymore; as it completely messes me up-I think that I was hallucinating on the plane over here after taking it at one point. We are close to meeting Simret and I don't want to dull my cognition for that magical day? I have been bit by multiple bugs, including mosquitoes, but I think that I will risk it for clarity's sake. It is funny that our government is concerned that Simret may give us something; when the truth is-she should be worried about us giving her something after this adventure. My clothes and body have never been as dirty as during this trip; when I wash them it is in dirty water, and they stay wet for days. So, why bother...I decided yesterday, from here on out, I am not washing my clothing or worrying about my hygiene. Clean is such a relative term at this time.
Tonight as we all four drifted to sleep; Colton woke abruptly-jumped out of the bed and started yelling something about 2 spiders. He apparently was dreaming-as he told us about the multicolored Toucan-looking spiders that were on Dylan's suitcase. It took us quite some time to convince him that he was dreaming and that there were no spiders. Of course we teased him some the next morning and it kind of became another funny memory of our trip South. (On a side note-the showers did not turn on as promised at 7pm-to say the least-the boys were not happy-however, they did end up getting showers that night; but just a little later than expected). After the spider incident, we had a restful sleep listening to the rain fall-we actually all slept in until 8am.
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